*Updated 1/25/2020!*
INFORMATION PAGE IS ALWAYS BEING ADDED TO, AND IS CURRENTLY NOT COMPLETE AS OF January 2020!
PLEASE CHECK BACK LATER FOR MORE INFORMATION ADDED!
INFORMATION PAGE IS ALWAYS BEING ADDED TO, AND IS CURRENTLY NOT COMPLETE AS OF January 2020!
PLEASE CHECK BACK LATER FOR MORE INFORMATION ADDED!
Anatomy of Goats
https://thekebun.files.wordpress.com/2008/09/goatbody-parts1.gif
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/352688214550059059/
https://www.pinterest.com/jochemalink/goat-anatomy-muscles/
https://www.pinterest.com/jochemalink/goat-anatomy-muscles/
Ruminant Digestive System
Goats have a ruminant digestive system. Meaning they have a 4-chambered, compartmentalized, stomach. This makes them very efficient at digesting their food. Each compartment of the ruminant stanch has it's own job. The 4 compartments of the ruminant stomach are as follows:
- Rumen- located on the left side of the Goat. It is the first and largest compartment of the ruminant stomach. It is a storage and fermentation vat for feed. Good microbial bacteria live here and help to break down and digest the feed for the Goat. The rumen absorbs most of the volatile fatty acids from the feed. The rumen surface is covered in tiny projections called papillae, which increase surface area and absorption capacity of the rumen. A Goat will initially ingest and partially chew their food the first time, swallow it, and it ends up here. Later, they will regurgitate it and re-chew it again(cud), and re-swallow it for a second time. From there it goes to the next compartment, the reticulum.
- Reticulum- the reticulum is a pouch-like structure that is located in the forward area of the body cavity. This compartment is the closest compartment to the heart. The lining of the reticulum looks like honeycombs. A small fold of tissue lies between the reticulum and the rumen. Heavy or dense feed drops into this compartment.
- Omasum- the omasum is a globe-shaped structure, and contains leaves of tissue like the pages of a book. The omasum absorbs water and other digestive substances from digestive contents.
- Abomasum- the final compartment of the ruminant stomach is the reticulum. It is the "true stomach" of the Goat. It had a glandular lining. Hydrochloride acid and digestive enzymes, needed for the breakdown of feeds, are emitted from the lining here. The remaining feed will be broken down and digested further here, before entering into the small intestine.
https://thekebun.files.wordpress.com/2008/10/digestsystem1.jpg
Diet & Mineral Requirements
Goats are browsers, meaning they prefer trees, bushes, and woody weeds, rather than just grass like horses eat. They like to stay on the move, eating here and there. They do nibble on a lot of things, but do not eat tin cans. Goats can graze a pasture, but it will not be "mowed".
Goats have specific nutritional needs, only some of which are met by the plants on your farm that they browse on. Feed must be provided for the needs that cannot be met by browsing.
Unless you have a lot of property with a variety of browse, feed will be the biggest expense in raising goats. Don't scrimp on feed and hay--it will pay off in good health, milk production, and lower veterinary bills.
Goat feeds can be divided into 2 types:
- Roughages- high in fiber and come from the green parts of plants. They include grasses and browse(leaves, twigs, shoots) from plants such as shrubs or bushes. Hay and straw are roughages that have been cut and cured, making them ideal for storage and later use. Chaffhaye is a roughage that has the added benefit of containing good bacteria that aid in digestion. Roughages make up the bulk of a goats' diet. They are key to a goats' digestion and add bulk to the diet, but they are low in energy (calories).
- Concentrates- are complementary to Roughages and are usually referred to as grain. They are low in fiber but high in either energy or protein. Common concentrates can include corn, oats, barley, and soybeans.
Hay is the main source of nutrients for goats in non-grazing seasons, or all the time if they don't have access to browse. Each goat typically needs about 2-4 pounds of hay each day, although some of this need can be met by available pasture or other forage. Hay should be available free-choice at all times, especially when pasture is not available. It is important for a goats' digestive system to always have something in it so acids do not build up and cause bloat.
Grass Hay- provides a moderate amount of protein and energy for the Goat diet.
Legume Hays- such as clover and alfalfa, usually have more protein, vitamins, and minerals, particularly calcium, than grass hays. This varies depending on the maturity of the hay or alfalfa and they way that it's cured and stored.
Feeding Grain
Grain or pelleted mixes add protein, vitamins, and minerals to a goats' diet. It is best to get a good quality grain specifically formulated for goats. Examples include Purina Goat Chow, Noble Goat, Dumor Goat, etc. When switching brands, it is important to gradually make the switch over several days, introducing the new feed in small amounts at a time, to prevent digestive problems. Also, remember to start slow with grain, to avoid bloat and diarrhea.
Types of grains:
- Whole Grain- this is the whole, unprocessed grain seed head.
- Pelleted Grain- a product made from grain or grain byproducts milled into small pieces and then made into pellets by adding a binding agent.
- Rolled Grain- Nutritionally identical to whole grain, rolled grain is simply rolled so its' flat.
- Texturized Grain- Similar to rolled grain, texturized feed mixes usually have other ingredients added to improve nutrition.
- Kids- You can raise kids entirely on hay and pasture or feed them Grain for all or part of their first year to help maximize growth. This is an individual decision based on your Herd goals. It also depends on if you are raising Doelings, bucklings, or wethers. See below for males.
- Wethers- (castrated males) are susceptible to urinary stones and don't normally need grain. I don't even recommend it, just to be safe. They do fine on a grain-free diet if you provide them with good quality grass hay and browse. Even the alfalfa can be problematic because of the calcium, which causes a certain type of stone. Urinary Calculi is the development and blockage of uroliths in the very narrow urethra of most commonly male goats, more commonly wethers. Essentially a urinary stone is formed due to an imbalance of phosphorus and calcium in the diet. The stone eventually enters the urethra and blocks the passage of urine from the bladder. If the goat becomes blocked, he can quickly die. This is a serious, and life-threatening emergency matter. He may appear hunched up, and straining to urinate but nothing or very little is coming out. Do NOT provide water to help alleviate the problem, this will only make him want to urinate with more urgency. You will need to call your veterinarian ASAP. They may be able to save the goat, if caught early on, by snipping off the pizzle at the tip of the urethra. Other times, they may have to do surgery to manually remove the stones or even make it so the goat now urinates out the back like a female. Unfortunately, if this happens to a goat, it is likely to happen again in the future. This is almost always the result of human error by providing an improper diet. That is why I do not recommend Grain for males. If you must feed Grain to males, please make sure your grain has ammonium chloride in it to help balance out the pH levels in the urine to help discourage urinary stones from developing. Please do not let this scare you away from owning wethers. They make wonderful pets, and are very easy to care for, provided with this cautionary information.
- Bucks- bucks, like wethers, are more prone to UC but it is not as common. They usually only need Grain during rut season, which is when they enter breeding season like deer. They can get run-down and not eat enough when they're breeding, and a little grain gives them much-needed energy.
- Pregnant & Lactating Does- need Grain for the energy it gives. They need an increased amount of daily calories to help grow strong healthy kids while pregnant, and to support a healthy milk supply after kidding. Does can get UC, but it is very rare. It is important to keep an eye on a does body condition throughout her pregnancy and after kidding, so her diet requirements can be adjusted accordingly. If she is starting to look a little thin, it might be a good idea to increase her diet, along with checking for parasites. If she is starting to become overweight, it might be a good idea to decrease her diet slightly, to help ensure an easy kidding delivery.
Vitamins and minerals are essential to keeping goats healthy, making sure they're growing well, and assisting in reproduction and the development of healthy kids and goats. The amount of minerals and vitamins that goats get from their food will vary depending on what hay, minerals, browse, and grain they have access to.
Free-Choice Minerals are a great way to provide essential vitamins and minerals that a goat needs in its's diet. Loose minerals kept out of the weather are ideal for goats, but there are blocks out there as well. They will eat what they need, provided they have access to it at all times.
*Never buy "goat/sheep" minerals because they do not have enough copper in them for a goats' needs. The amount of copper a goat needs can kill a sheep.*
Goat specific minerals are best.
**Copper Deficiency** See Pictures Below
Goats are very prone to being copper deficient.
Copper deficiency can occur in all kinds of goats, regardless of breed or gender. There is insufficient copper amounts provided in grain, and even when supplemented with loose minerals, goats can still be lacking in this vital nutrient.
Symptoms to indicate copper deficiency:
- Rough hair coat- hair becomes long and bushy. It will start to look sun bleached, rough, and faded. They also may take longer to shed out in the Spring.
- Fish Tail- a bald tail tip. The hair separates at the end, creating a "fish" tail.
A great way to supplement much needed copper in a goats' diet is by copper Bolusing. After copper boluses are given, it will take about a month to start seeing results, but the goats' hair coat will greatly improve. Their hair will become much shinier, less rough, and less faded. The fish tail typically goes away as well.
Copper boluses typically last for 6-12 months in a Goat, depending on an individual goats' needs.
Black Oil Sunflower Seeds(BOSS)
Black oil sunflower seeds are a relatively inexpensive supplement to a goats' grain. They contain vitamin E, zinc, iron, and selenium. They also add fiber and fat to the diet. BOSS make a goats' coat shinier and also increase the butterfat in their milk. They eat the shell and all.
Baking Soda
Many Goat owners offer free-choice baking soda to their goats' diet, which aids in digestion by keeping their rumen pH balanced. If a goat has a digestive problem, offer baking soda. It can help to treat and prevent bloating.
Treats & Snacks
Treat can be great for goats, in moderation. They can help you bond with them, and will always bring joy to them when they see you coming with munchies.
- Corn chips- great for wethers because their saltiness encourages them to drink water, which helps to prevent UC.
- Fruits- always a great treat. Goats love apples, watermelon, peaches, pears, grapes, bananas-peel and all, dried fruit like cranberries, raisins, and most other fruits. Just make sure that the fruit pieces small enough to not cause choking.
- Vegetables- a nutritious addition t any diet. Goat love carrots with their tops attached, celery, pumpkins, squash, spinach, lettuce, and other greens. Avoid potatoes and tomatoes, which contain alkaloids, and plants with oxalates, such as kale. These can be poisonous to goats.
- Goat & Horse Treats- feed stores also sell treats for goats and horses, which they love as well.
- Animal Crackers
- Peanuts, Shell Included
- Cereal
- Crackers
Copper Deficiency Examples
http://noodlevilleadventures.blogspot.com/2012/01/noodleville-how-to-copper-bolusing.html
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/591660469766192991/
Poisonous Plants
Goats ignore poisonous plants most of the time, but because of their need to browse, they may try them just for variety. Whether goats that eat a poisonous plant show signs of poisoning depends on how much of plant they eat, what part of the plant they eat, the condition of the plant(fresh or dried), the time of year, and the size and health of the goat. Theu may have no signs of poisoning, or they may get very sick and even die.
Some of the common poisonous plants that might grow in your pasture or back hard include:
Weeds:
If your goats can get their heads through the fence to the neighbor's yard, make sure that poisonous plants aren't growing within reach there.
if you find these plants, either remove them or make sure that your fencing will keep your goats away. If the poisonous plant is a tree, make sure that the leaves won't fall into the pen in the autumn by either removing the tree or situating the pen far away from the tree. Dried leaves can be the most deadly part of the tree.
I recommend that you talk to your neighbors about poisonous plants and ask them not to throw their garden trimmings into the yard as a treat for your goats without asking first.
Some of the common poisonous plants that might grow in your pasture or back hard include:
Weeds:
- Bracken fern
- Buttercup
- Common milkweed
- Foxglove
- Lantana
- Locoweed
- Poke weed
- Spurge
- St. John's Wort
- Water hemlock & poison hemlock
- Cyanide-producing trees such as: cherry, chokecherry, elderberry, and plum (especially the wilted leaves from these trees)
- Ponderosa pine
- Yew
- Azalea
- Kale
- Lily of the Valley
- Oleander
- Poppy
- Potato
- Rhododendron
- Rhubarb
If your goats can get their heads through the fence to the neighbor's yard, make sure that poisonous plants aren't growing within reach there.
if you find these plants, either remove them or make sure that your fencing will keep your goats away. If the poisonous plant is a tree, make sure that the leaves won't fall into the pen in the autumn by either removing the tree or situating the pen far away from the tree. Dried leaves can be the most deadly part of the tree.
I recommend that you talk to your neighbors about poisonous plants and ask them not to throw their garden trimmings into the yard as a treat for your goats without asking first.
Parasite Prevention & Treatment
Regardless of how well you care for your goats, they will get parasites-organisms that live and feed on another organism. All mammals have parasites, which isn't completely bad, because their presence stimulates the animals' systems and keeps them healthy. But, when a goat gets overwhelmed by parasites, trouble starts.
luckily for goat owners, many of these little critters are host-specific, which means that goats can get them, but people can't. By the same token, goats can't get most of our parasites, either. Exceptions are ticks, fleas, and some mites.
Parasites are 2 types:
External Parasites- live on the outside of the body.
Internal Parasites- live inside the body, usually in the digestive system.
Controlling EXTERNAL Parasites:
External Parasites are often just an annoyance, but they can lead to bacterial infections of the skin. You can prevent such infections by routine grooming, avoiding indoor overcrowding, and identifying and treating infestations early.
Lice
Goats can get 2 kinds of lice:
Biting lice- eat dead skin cells on the goats and make them itch.
Sucking lice- more serious-they not only cause itching, but they suck the goats' blood, which can lead to anemia.
Lice tend to take up residence on a goat in winter months. You can usually tell that a goat has lice because it shows signs of itching. Its' coat may begin to look rough, and the goat will rub on fences(more than usual), have dandruff, lose patches of hair, and chew on itself.
You can see the lice, or their grayish eggs, called nits, by inspecting the top of the goats' back with a magnifying glass. You'll need a microscope to determine whether you are dealing with biting or sucking lice though. Biting lice have small heads, and sucking lice have large heads.
You can often control lice by just regularly brushing your goats, or clipping them when the weather is warmer. If the goats aren't seriously infested-experiencing intense itching and hair loss-th lice will leave on their own, even without grooming, when the weather is warm and the goats spend more time in the sun.
For more severe infestations, we treat goats twice, over a 2 week period, with an insecticide dust such as Python Dust. Make sure you do this in a well ventilated area. Dust the goat, and be sure to strip bedding and replace with fresh, clean bedding. In 14 days, repeat the process again by dusting the goat and stripping and re-bedding the goats' living areas.
Mites
Like lice, mites infest goats mainly during colder months.
They come in 2 types:
Non-Burrowing- usually start in in hairy areas of the body, such as the tail, and then work their way along the body. They attach to the skin and puncture it, releasing body fluid. You may see crusty patches and hair loss on a goat under attack from mites.
Burrowing- are related to the mite that causes scabies in humans. They start in areas that are hairless or have little hair, such as a goats' face or ears. They cause itching and bare burrows in the skin and eventually may lead to thickened skin and extensive hair loss.
You can get rid of both burrowing and non-burrowing mites with subcutaneous(SQ)-under the skin- injections of ivermectin. For best results, treat the whole Herd and do a second treatment to ensure that all eggs hatch after the initial treatment are dead. Continue to check Goats and contact veterinarian for severe cases where treatment is not effective.
Some mites live inside goats' ears. Use mineral oil in the ears to smother them out.
Another type of mites are fond of the scrotom and the area between the legs and belly. You can treat these by smothering them up with Vaseline.
Fleas & Keds
Fleas and keds(louse flies) are wingless, jumping bugs that can infest goats, usually in the spring or summer. All of them are bloodsuckers, but they usually are more of a pest than a serious health problem. Goats can get fleas from dogs and cats, and keds from sheep.
If your goats have them, you probably notice them rubbing, scratching, and chewing, and you will be able to see the bugs upon inspection.
You can treat these the same as lice, with Python Dust, and a repeat treatment in 14 days, along with stripping and re-bedding living areas each time after treatment.
Ticks
If your goats are pastured in or near woods, they're a target for ticks. Ticks can be more than just pests because they can spread Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain spotted fever, and other diseases that affect goats and humans. Ticks burrow into the skin, so make sure to remove them as soon as you see them. A tick that has attached to a goat looks like a skin tag and can be as big as a pencil eraser.
It is important to remove a tick properly, as to not leave part of the tick under the skin, or cause the tick to vomit back into the goat before detaching. For best results, use a tick extracter or a pair of tweezers.
Controlling INTERNAL Parasites:
Internal Parasites are one of the most common problems of goats, especially in warm, wet weather and climates. The mainly affect the goats' digestive systems, although a few migrate to other parts of the body. All mammals normally have a low level of certain internal Parasites, but it's when the parasites get out of control that they cause problems.
Coccidiosis
Coccidia are parasitic protozoa that tend to be a problem in kids or older, weakened goats. These single-celled organisms are always in the goats' environment and are normally carried by all goats. Only when they reproduce and overwhelm a goat that isn't resistant to them do they become a problem. An overgrowth of coccidia in a goats' digestive tract is called coccidiosis.
Kids under 6 months of age are at the highest risk of coccidiosis because their immune systems aren't yet developed enough to ward off the disease and because their mothers are likely to be shedding a high number of eggs after kidding. These eggs attach to the intestinal lining, causing pain and blood loss. The main sign of coccidiosis is diarrhea(called scours in reference to livestock) although in some cases an affected goat becomes constipated and dies.
When an adult goat suddenly dies for no apparent reason, have it checked by a veterinarian for coccidiosis and treat the whole herd if coccidiosis is found.
Some goats die very quickly from coccidiosis; a small number of kids have no signs other than failure to thrive.
Common Worms
In order to properly use dewormers in your goats, you first have to determine whether your goats have a problem with internal Parasites and, if so, what Parasites they have, especially goats that are not showing any signs of illness. Doing a routine fecal analysis before a goat shows signs helps you identify and prevent potential problems before they occur.
Giving your goats dewormers routinely and randomly without running a fecal test to determine what if any Parasites you are dealing with makes Parasites resistant to these products, rendering them ineffective and causing your goat to potentially dwindle in health.
FAMACHA Scale
FAMACHA is a method for evaluating whether a goat is becoming anemic from a parasite overload, most often the barber pole worm. FAMACHA, which requires training, involves looking at a goat's lower eyelid and comparing it to a laminated card with 5 different colors. The lighter the color, the more anemic the goat is.
FAMACHA enables you to identify and treat only those goats who have a serious parasite problem, rather than treating healthy goats. *FAMACHA Scale below.*
De-Worming
Sooner or later, your goats will develop a problem with Parasites, or you'll want to preventatively deworm a doe after kidding or a new addition to the Herd while it's still in quarantine. You figure out the right dose by first weighing your goat. Then read the label, which tells you a dose, sometimes for goats, and sometimes for other animals such as cattle, sheep, or horses. This is where it gets a little tricky. When it comes to dewormers such as these, they are considered "extra or off labeled". They're not dosed for goats, but often can be used for goats if dosed correctly.
Helping Keep Parasite Problems at Bay
Prevent parasite problems by taking a few simple steps:
luckily for goat owners, many of these little critters are host-specific, which means that goats can get them, but people can't. By the same token, goats can't get most of our parasites, either. Exceptions are ticks, fleas, and some mites.
Parasites are 2 types:
External Parasites- live on the outside of the body.
Internal Parasites- live inside the body, usually in the digestive system.
Controlling EXTERNAL Parasites:
External Parasites are often just an annoyance, but they can lead to bacterial infections of the skin. You can prevent such infections by routine grooming, avoiding indoor overcrowding, and identifying and treating infestations early.
Lice
Goats can get 2 kinds of lice:
Biting lice- eat dead skin cells on the goats and make them itch.
Sucking lice- more serious-they not only cause itching, but they suck the goats' blood, which can lead to anemia.
Lice tend to take up residence on a goat in winter months. You can usually tell that a goat has lice because it shows signs of itching. Its' coat may begin to look rough, and the goat will rub on fences(more than usual), have dandruff, lose patches of hair, and chew on itself.
You can see the lice, or their grayish eggs, called nits, by inspecting the top of the goats' back with a magnifying glass. You'll need a microscope to determine whether you are dealing with biting or sucking lice though. Biting lice have small heads, and sucking lice have large heads.
You can often control lice by just regularly brushing your goats, or clipping them when the weather is warmer. If the goats aren't seriously infested-experiencing intense itching and hair loss-th lice will leave on their own, even without grooming, when the weather is warm and the goats spend more time in the sun.
For more severe infestations, we treat goats twice, over a 2 week period, with an insecticide dust such as Python Dust. Make sure you do this in a well ventilated area. Dust the goat, and be sure to strip bedding and replace with fresh, clean bedding. In 14 days, repeat the process again by dusting the goat and stripping and re-bedding the goats' living areas.
Mites
Like lice, mites infest goats mainly during colder months.
They come in 2 types:
Non-Burrowing- usually start in in hairy areas of the body, such as the tail, and then work their way along the body. They attach to the skin and puncture it, releasing body fluid. You may see crusty patches and hair loss on a goat under attack from mites.
Burrowing- are related to the mite that causes scabies in humans. They start in areas that are hairless or have little hair, such as a goats' face or ears. They cause itching and bare burrows in the skin and eventually may lead to thickened skin and extensive hair loss.
You can get rid of both burrowing and non-burrowing mites with subcutaneous(SQ)-under the skin- injections of ivermectin. For best results, treat the whole Herd and do a second treatment to ensure that all eggs hatch after the initial treatment are dead. Continue to check Goats and contact veterinarian for severe cases where treatment is not effective.
Some mites live inside goats' ears. Use mineral oil in the ears to smother them out.
Another type of mites are fond of the scrotom and the area between the legs and belly. You can treat these by smothering them up with Vaseline.
Fleas & Keds
Fleas and keds(louse flies) are wingless, jumping bugs that can infest goats, usually in the spring or summer. All of them are bloodsuckers, but they usually are more of a pest than a serious health problem. Goats can get fleas from dogs and cats, and keds from sheep.
If your goats have them, you probably notice them rubbing, scratching, and chewing, and you will be able to see the bugs upon inspection.
You can treat these the same as lice, with Python Dust, and a repeat treatment in 14 days, along with stripping and re-bedding living areas each time after treatment.
Ticks
If your goats are pastured in or near woods, they're a target for ticks. Ticks can be more than just pests because they can spread Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain spotted fever, and other diseases that affect goats and humans. Ticks burrow into the skin, so make sure to remove them as soon as you see them. A tick that has attached to a goat looks like a skin tag and can be as big as a pencil eraser.
It is important to remove a tick properly, as to not leave part of the tick under the skin, or cause the tick to vomit back into the goat before detaching. For best results, use a tick extracter or a pair of tweezers.
Controlling INTERNAL Parasites:
Internal Parasites are one of the most common problems of goats, especially in warm, wet weather and climates. The mainly affect the goats' digestive systems, although a few migrate to other parts of the body. All mammals normally have a low level of certain internal Parasites, but it's when the parasites get out of control that they cause problems.
Coccidiosis
Coccidia are parasitic protozoa that tend to be a problem in kids or older, weakened goats. These single-celled organisms are always in the goats' environment and are normally carried by all goats. Only when they reproduce and overwhelm a goat that isn't resistant to them do they become a problem. An overgrowth of coccidia in a goats' digestive tract is called coccidiosis.
Kids under 6 months of age are at the highest risk of coccidiosis because their immune systems aren't yet developed enough to ward off the disease and because their mothers are likely to be shedding a high number of eggs after kidding. These eggs attach to the intestinal lining, causing pain and blood loss. The main sign of coccidiosis is diarrhea(called scours in reference to livestock) although in some cases an affected goat becomes constipated and dies.
When an adult goat suddenly dies for no apparent reason, have it checked by a veterinarian for coccidiosis and treat the whole herd if coccidiosis is found.
Some goats die very quickly from coccidiosis; a small number of kids have no signs other than failure to thrive.
Common Worms
- Brown Stomach Worm & Bankrupt Worm- More common in fall and winter, these stomach worms can cause diarrhea, rough coat, and thinness and inability to gain weight.
- Tapeworms- are easy to identify without a microscope because they drop off white sections, called segments, about the size of a grain of rice in the feces. They cause young goats to get pot-bellied and to develop poorly because the Parasites absorb their food. They can also cause diarrhea. A cold freeze can stop the tapeworm cycle in the pasture, but otherwise they can survive in the ground year round for a year.
- Meningeal Worms- spread by deer, which is why you should try to keep deer away from your goats. This worm is more common in the fall and winter, and needs wet weather. Part of its reproductive cycle occurs in snails and slugs. Rather than causing diarrhea, the meningeal worm causes neurological problems in goats, including partial paralysis, circling, blindness, and difficulty walking. If your goat develops these symptoms, contact a veterinarian to determine whether it's meningeal worm and to treat it.
- Liver Flukes- true to its name, this fluke invades the liver, where it causes internal bleeding and consequent anemia. These Parasites use a certain type of snail. In their reproductive cycle and affect goats in the winter and spring. In severe cases, the goat will lose its appetite, lie down and not get up, and ultimately die. Less severe cases can cause thinness, rough coat, rapid heart rate, and bottle jaw.
- Lungworms- lungworms are cool weather Parasites. Some use snails and slugs in their reproduction, and others are coughed up by infected goats or are released in the feces and then mature. Hot weather and freezes kills them. Lungworms can cause painful breathing, chronic cough, failure to gain weight, and death. When you have a goat with a chronic cough and no fever or other signs of pneumonia, consider lungworms. They can be definitively diagnosed only with a Baermann test, a special fecal exam performed by a Veterinary lab.
In order to properly use dewormers in your goats, you first have to determine whether your goats have a problem with internal Parasites and, if so, what Parasites they have, especially goats that are not showing any signs of illness. Doing a routine fecal analysis before a goat shows signs helps you identify and prevent potential problems before they occur.
Giving your goats dewormers routinely and randomly without running a fecal test to determine what if any Parasites you are dealing with makes Parasites resistant to these products, rendering them ineffective and causing your goat to potentially dwindle in health.
FAMACHA Scale
FAMACHA is a method for evaluating whether a goat is becoming anemic from a parasite overload, most often the barber pole worm. FAMACHA, which requires training, involves looking at a goat's lower eyelid and comparing it to a laminated card with 5 different colors. The lighter the color, the more anemic the goat is.
FAMACHA enables you to identify and treat only those goats who have a serious parasite problem, rather than treating healthy goats. *FAMACHA Scale below.*
De-Worming
Sooner or later, your goats will develop a problem with Parasites, or you'll want to preventatively deworm a doe after kidding or a new addition to the Herd while it's still in quarantine. You figure out the right dose by first weighing your goat. Then read the label, which tells you a dose, sometimes for goats, and sometimes for other animals such as cattle, sheep, or horses. This is where it gets a little tricky. When it comes to dewormers such as these, they are considered "extra or off labeled". They're not dosed for goats, but often can be used for goats if dosed correctly.
Helping Keep Parasite Problems at Bay
Prevent parasite problems by taking a few simple steps:
- Avoid having too many goats in too small an area.
- Don't allow goats to overgraze.
- Regularly clean the goats' living quarters or dirty bedding.
- Don't feed your goats on the ground.
- Keep deer, which can be carriers, away from goats.
- Introduce ducks or geese, which eat the snail and slugs that spread certain Parasites.
- Deworm goats in quarantine before introducing them to your Herd.
- Perform routine fecal analysis on your goats.
https://www.backyardherds.com/threads/ivermectin-for-worms.1716/page-2
Hoof Trimming
Hoof trimming is a very important step in your goat's well being. Goat hooves can grow very quickly when they are not in an adequate environment where they can be worn down naturally. As a general rule of thumb, you should trim, or at least check, your goat's hooves every 8 weeks. Every goat is unique though, and so some may need trimmed sooner, as to where some can go a little longer in between trims. You will get to know your goats over time, and find out what is best for them.
Tools needed for trimming your goats' hooves:
A few items you can include in your goats' pasture to help them wear their hooves down naturally include:
Also below are How-To's to trim hooves, and trouble-shooting.
Tools needed for trimming your goats' hooves:
- Hoof pick with brush
- Tin or Rose snips
- Quick Stop in case of trimming too deep
A few items you can include in your goats' pasture to help them wear their hooves down naturally include:
- Rocks
- Stumps
- Pallets or wood ramps covered in roof shingles
- Gravel
Also below are How-To's to trim hooves, and trouble-shooting.
http://www.ahp-vet.com/healthysmrm/C322.htm
http://www.npga-pygmy.com/resources/husbandry/hoof_trimming.asp